RUSHVILLE, Mo. — Riverwood Winery sits a far cry from the hustle and bustle of a big-city courtroom.

That’s just how the owners like it.

David Naatz had practiced law for more than 25 years in Washington D.C., Kansas City and Seattle before he and his wife, Ginah Mortensen, opened their winery in February 2007.

On a rainy Wednesday morning, Mr. Naatz spoke with one of the day’s first customers as a train rumbled alongside Missouri Highway 45 on the northern edge of Platte County. Bottles of Urbane Red, Ambivalent White and other varieties lined the racks next to shelves of antiques, imported beer and other gourmet food products. The customer left with his purchase, and Mr. Naatz began to tell how two lawyers found their way into the wine industry.

When Mr. Naatz bought a farm east of the village of Iatan more than a dozen years ago, he knew just what he wanted to do with the land: raise cattle.

The rolling pastures on the back side of the river bluffs seemed perfect for livestock. Then a surprising discovery sent the couple down a different path. As they cleared the fields they found row after row of grapes, tangled in wires underneath the brush. In all, eight acres of grapes emerged from the pasture.

“Somebody had pulled up all of the posts from the trellises and left the vines on the ground. They probably used them for fence posts,” Mr. Naatz said. “I didn’t even know the grapes were there when I bought the land.”

The grapes grew into an idea. Why not restore the vineyard? The couple shared an interest in wine making, so if they could turn that interest into knowledge, the dream of a winery was within reach.

After a few years of experiments and reading up on the subject, the couple purchased an abandoned school building just south of Rushville and the Buchanan-Platte county line — about three miles north of the farm. The roof leaked, the windows were broken and ceiling tiles littered the floor. It was perfect.

Now an old classroom houses the store and wine-tasting area. The auditorium serves as a weekend music venue when the weather forces crowds inside from the patio. Other rooms allow space for wine production.

“When I look back at the pictures I wonder what I was thinking,” Mr. Naatz said. “It was a full-time job, but we got it done.”

When the couple ran out of repairs, they knew it was time to open for business. Instead of advertising, they set a sign by the road and relied on word of mouth.

“That might have been the hardest part,” Mr. Naatz said. “We put the sign on the road, and then we opened the doors and hoped somebody would come in.”

The customers have come, and after more than a year in business, Mr. Naatz said he has a few ideas for expansion. He wants to tear down most of his vineyard and move it up the hill closer to his home. He also wants to start a movie night at the winery, with wine-themed films, of course. 'Sideways’ and Cab, anyone?

Riverwood Winery is one of a trio of wineries in Platte County. Pirtle Winery has operated in Weston since 1978 and Jowler Creek Vineyard & Winery began production in the past year north of Platte City.

Mr. Naatz said he thinks the county could support even more. He hopes that someday the area could hold a cluster of wineries that attract tourists for Missouri wine tours — like those found in Hermann or Ste. Genevieve.

“Every time someone comes in here and tells me they want to start a vineyard and make their own wine, I tell them the same thing. 'Do it, and put it in Platte County.’” Mr. Naatz said.

How do I start?

Wine and grapes specialists from the University of Missouri will host a Five-State Viticulture Field Day on July 28 for people interested in starting or developing new vineyards. The event includes tours of Fahrmeier Farms in Lexington, Mo., and Baltimore Bend Winery in Waverly, Mo. Registration is $25 until July 11 and $35 after the deadline. Visit http://iccve.missouri.edu for more information.

Business reporter Clinton Thomas can be reached at clintonthomas@npgco.com.